When I discussed my interest in trying more lux restaurants, and exclaimed my joy at dining at Gordan Ramsey Steak while I was in Vegas during the Christmas Season, my girlfriend thought to treat me to a meal at a Michelin Star rated restaurant for my birthday. So after some research and discussion, we settled on a brunch outing at the posh, new American Restaurant Crownshy.

After traversing dozens of NY city blocks trough the dreary elements on an early Saturday afternoon, we arrived at the restaurant; located on an unassuming block within the very lux, 70 Pine Apartment Complex. 

First Impressions

The aesthetics give the impression that you are eating at a high end establishment: Shiny and solid tile flooring, bright neutral colors and plush brown leather seats. From the entrance, we were sat at the top left corner of Crownshy, giving us a birds eye view into the sizeable kitchen, shimmering from its stainless steel appliances and tools.

The main floor was brightly lit, but the path to the bathrooms and VIP area was dim and demure, revealing a crimson glow that acted as the backdrop to an array of black and white photos. And in the words of Paulie “Walnuts” Gualtieri from the iconic show The Sopranos, the bathroom looked so clean “you could eat maple walnut ice cream from the toilets” – It was very nice in lemans terms.  

The Drinks

Prior to our appetizers, we ordered drinks. I wouldn’t shut up about this liquor named Chartreuse, which recently made a re-entry into my frontal cortex after remembering a song by the alternative group Capital Cities, during a conversation about cocktails with my girlfriend.  Given the rarity and high cost of this money green liqueur, and the swelling curiosity I had of its flavor, my girlfriend being the pragmatist that she is, requested the beverage on my behalf. We were soon greeted by the very friendly bartender, who explained the origins of Chartreuse, its current supply chain issues and what flavors best compliment it. He then gave us each a shot of the jade liquid and made a specialty cocktail for me, comprised of Mezcal and Lime juice.

The Chartreuse itself tasted like the finest of cough syrups: a brash and syrupy blast of mint and other herbal notes. I’d prefer this to any of your top of the line cough syrups; especially if it was still able to suppress my flu like symptoms, while giving me a non-drug induced buzz in the process.  The best way I can describe the Chartreuse cocktail is that it was like a Bizzaro Margarita. It has a similar disposition and development. Yet, its Smokey and savory flavors seemed like the antithesis of Superman’s traditionally constructed Margarita. It was a very intriguing experience. We also shared a cocktail off of the brunch menu called The Conondrum: bourbon, Ginger, lemon, amaro and passion berry. A bit sour for my taste but appeased the pallet of my partner.

The Food

For appetizers, we ordered the Chive Biscuits w/ Pimento Cheese and a Prawn Caesar Salad. The Biscuits were tasty with the light coating of honey and its flaky texture. But it was a bit too dense and dry for my liking. The Prawn Caesar Salad was very refreshing and appeasing to the pallet. Yet, its finest ingredients, such as the parmesans crisp, the tangy sardines and the avocado, all seemed sparse.

The main course consisted of Smoked Salmon with a Potato Rosti, a Chicken Sandwich and a side of Thick Cut Bacon. The Smoked Salmon was different from what I expected: It came out atop of a wood plank, with chunks of smoked salmon, red onion cloves, diced dill pickles, and separate bowls of Crème fraîche, caviar and a salmon salad. The Potato Rosti, which is a fancy name for a hasbrown, came in a separate skillet. It felt out of place and was far too crunchy. The smoked Salmon itself was indeed smoky in flavor and tasted as if was recently cured. Yet, it was too “fleshy” for my girlfriends liking. The dill pickles tasted like they were plucked and diced fresh out of the huge barrels you’d see at your corner deli. It added that salty pop to the smoked salmon, and paired well with the crunch of the red onion and the creaminess of the fraîche, making for a well balanced bite. The caviar was pungent to my taste buds, sending a pop of seawater flavored juice down my throat with every crunch. The smoked salmon salad was the highlight of the meal: akin to a greatly improved version of what I typically make with a can of chicken of the sea tuna during my work week.

We were plenty full off of the aforementioned items, along with the thick cut bacon, which was more like slabs of seared boar flesh. The chicken sandwich was all that was left on our plate, as we contemplated a to go box due to our very full stomachs. Yet, I forced myself to at least take a bite; which turned into another bite, and then another….until there was nothing but sauce drippings left on my beard. Yes, it was THAT good! Dare I say, the best chicken Sandwich I have ever had. The bun had this velvety sweetness to it. The fried chicken breast had a deceiving dark and dry crust, that revealed a rich, well seasoned and juicy piece of white meat. And the hot sauce added just a subtle spark to the sandwich, making for a complete bite.

Final Thoughts

Leaving the restaurant satisfied, two thoughts came to mind: fresh but charred. Each dish tasted lively, vibrant, yet exsiccated in its texture. The wait staff were all very cordial, accommodating and attentive; what I have come to expect from a Michelin Star restaurant – at least until our food was served and our bellies were full. And the design and aesthetics of the restaurant as a whole gave me the impression that I was eating at a high-end establishment.

Would I eat here again? Slight grievances aside in the technique used to prepare these dishes, I am intrigued enough to visit this spot once more during its dinner hours to fully see what its’ featured entrees have to offer. And considering my enjoyment with the presentation of this establishment as a whole, I’d certainly welcome another trip through Manhattan to visit Crownshy, only under better weather conditions I hope.